Going to Galapagos 🐧🐢🦈

20/1/23

Today was the day! I’m was going to Galapagos! 🥳🥳🥳 I had an early flight and got to the airport extra early because apparently going to Galapagos is quite the process with many forms to be fill, bags to be thoroughly checked and money to be paid. I was pleased to have made it through the first round of paperwork before I headed to check in my bag. Surprisingly, the check in was simple with no need to show proof of leaving Ecuador, which was a blessing since I have no flight booked!

Once through security, I went to the same airport cafe as I had before when I flew into Quito. I ordered in slightly better Spanish than two weeks prior, and even managed to ask for a bag to take away for my remaining toastie. What a win!

The flight to Baltra Island, Galapagos was about a third full, maybe even less, so I managed to move to a window seat. Of course, the view wasn’t bad! When we arrived, we walked off the plane and were allowed to walked to the terminal, only to be greeted by roaming iguanas. Wow!

Once we paid our national park fee and passed security, we had to wait for an adorable sniffer dog to search all our bags for illegal food items (various things are banned to be brought into Galapagos for fear of messing with its specialist ecosystem). The dog looked very happy scrambling over the top of all our bags and eventually, we were waved through to collect our bags.

I got the bus, which I thought would take me to the main port in Santa Cruz, Puerto Ayora, but oh no, that would’ve been too simple! Despite the face that everyone was going to the same one port town, the journey was broken down into three separate transactions, each with waiting, baggage reloading and much confusion! We got the bus to a channel, then unloaded the bus, loaded it onto a boat, crossed the channel, got off the boat, waited for the baggage to be unloaded. While we were now on Santa Cruz, we had to find another bus/taxi to Puerto Ayora. I paid for a bus and then waited a fair while for it to be completely full before we left.

On arrival to the town, I navigated my way through the busy streets to my hostel. I checked in, ditched the bags, and headed out. It was 1pm ish (an hour earlier than I expected because Galapagos is one hour earlier than main land Ecuador – nice!). First I headed in search of a ferry ticket for two days time. I got one for $30 and then figured I had enough time for an iced coffee before my tourosting began – it had been a very hot sweaty walk with my big rucksack to the hostel, so I felt I had earnt it! The lady in the coffee shop was very friendly and we chatted a little with my broken Spanish before I headed off. Next I needed a bike!

After doing a few walks up and down the road, I went back to a man who would give me a bike for rent for $8. I signed my life away and then headed off up the road. I was meant to get the bus to the next town, with the bike hooked on the back, before cycling to Los Gemelos, a lava rock formation. Unfortunately, I tried to get on one bus, but the driver waved me towards another. As I went to try and reach the other bus, it pulled past. I wasn’t pleased! I didn’t have a lot of time to waste (especially after my iced coffee!).

Luckily for me, a nice taxi driver pulled over and asked if I was okay. He said he would take me to where the bus would for the same price as he was going that way anyway for an airport run. Perfect! He lifted my bike in the back of the pick up, and I hopped in. Juan was a lovely guy who was trying to learn English, and also used duolingo! We had a great chat on the way, teaching each other various words before he dropped me all the way to Los Gemelos, I paid my dollar and he carried on.

Los Gemelos was apparently formed when the volcanic activity under Santa Cruz slowed and the lava cooled, causing the land on top of the lava to drop down. It was quite dramatic looking and was also the place that Darwin discovered his finches. It felt pretty wild to be in the same place that Darwin had been, not gonna lie! There was a Spanish speaking tour group there at the same time and a young boy was watching me read the English information sign. He asked me to read in English, which I did and then we had a little chat before his group left. How cute!

After Los Gemelos, I was on my own with the bike. I cycled back to the next town, and headed off into the countryside towards the turtle farms. The road was fairly sketchy, as in, it was sandy, bumpy and steep in places, so it took me a fair while to make it the 5km down the road to the farm. This frustration was lessened by the fact that I saw multiple turtles just chilling either on the road, or in the ‘fields’ on either side of the road. Wow!! Some of them were huge! I paid my entrance fee at a hut at a random point on the lane and then eventually made it down to the farm where a tour guide, Tia, was waiting for me.

We began the tour and then were joined by a Spanish speaking family and then a couple. We saw many turtles and learnt that it wasn’t exactly a farm, more just a place where turtles came to live after they had been supported through their toddler hood safely, without being preyed on. After the tour, I went to see the lava tunnels. I didn’t get a full explanation on how they were formed but I presume it was something similar to Los Gemelos. Anyway, I found my way in and along to the end. It was a little creepy since it was quiet and I was alone and of course claustrophobic, so I sang to entertain myself (and to calm my nerves – bit of Calon Lan is always a good thing, right?!). I was pleased to reach the end, particularly because one bit, I had had to crouch on the floor and wobble through on flat feet to clear the small gap.

Sadly, I needed to go back the same way as my bike was waiting for me at the entrance, not the exit so I headed back into a claustrophobic world. About halfway along, the lights cut out. It suddenly became very hot and the tunnel became much deeper and darker! I tried to remember if there was a door to the tunnel – could I be locked in?! Oh lord! It wasn’t cold luckily as I only had a light shirt with me.. My phone was on 8% and while I did have a battery pack somewhere, I didn’t want to faff with that now, incase doors were being closed imminently. Instead, I hunted for my new head torch, which I had received for Christmas. On it went and things were better. I scurried through and made it out into the air just as someone else was coming to investigate the tunnels. I warned him fo the lack of light but he didn’t seem that fussed.

Then began the long cycle back! It was around 15kn and the turtle farm had long closed and the sun was already setting. Meanwhile, the roads were still sketchy but I didn’t have the luxury of time to be too fussy (wimpy). I began, jumping off at times to negotiate sand or too many small bumps together, but never taking a break. I was very sweaty as it was all up hill! Eventually, I made it back to the nearest town, where I was able to quickly drink some water before cycling as fast as I could for the remainder of the light. As night fell, I once again reached for the head torch, now trusty and out it on. Who needs bike lights when you have a head torch?! The only problem was that it seemed to cause bugs to fly towards the light and then directly into my eyes – owww! I adjusted the light a little and continued onwards.

I reached a junction and got my phone out to check the way, only for it to die, so I had to ask a man the direction, the old school way. I continued on, asked another guy and continued on. It was quite a distance and I decided I probably should have given the taxi driver Juan more than the $1 he offered to do it for! I made it back to the town, brimming with people for a pre-election event (read party) eventually around 7.15pm, absolutely starving!! I dropped the bike back and asked for food recommendations.

Before food though, I needed to enquire about tours for the morning. I went round five operators before going back to the original woman who had given me a good pitch. I booked in then headed for food, on her recommendation to the $5 menu del dia street. It ordered a menu del dia and was surprised when beef arrived. I was hungry, so I ate it and it was tasty but since we were on an island, I was rather expecting fish! My starter didn’t arrive so I had to request it after the main and the drink which had been quickly brought to my table was not included. I was annoyed, as I had been lied to, but at least I was not hungry! I headed back to the hostel to sleep!

I could hear live music in the port back at the hostel, so instead of heading straight to bed, after my shower, I went out and sat in the square. Many people were there and some people (party members for a specific candidate I think) were on the stage singing and dancing – it was fun, but odd. After a few songs, I headed back to bed!

21/1/23

Today was my first big tour! I was going to Isla Pinzon. I had a quick breakfast of ‘free to a good home’ toast with butter and a cup of tea before heading to the tour agent’s shop. When I got there, the lady who had sold me the tour look confused. I asked where everyone was as I wasn’t early and she said I was an hour early! My phone clock was still on Ecuador mainland time and the Galapagos is an hour back! I went back to the hostal to lie in a hammock for a hour and spoke to Clare on the phone! After the hour, I headed back to the shop, and met the group, an Ecuadorian family of five, two Israeli guys, two Korean girls and me, making a full boat.

We got a small taxi boat to the main boat and then headed out into the ocean. We stopped at a bay along from Puerto Ayora on the way to Pinzon to snorkel and saw giant turtles, sharks and lots of different fish. It felt very exciting to be so close to a swimming turtle! We also went ashore to look at the iguanas resting sites. Then we swam back to the boat, had a snack and a tea and headed on to Pinzon. We all napped on the way and needed to be pushed (gently) to get back on the snorkelling post nap!

Snorkelling around Pinzon was good. We saw more fish, more sharks, black and white tip ones and excitingly we swam really close to sealions, some of which were swimming and some pups were playing in the shallows – it was super adorable to watch and really exciting to be so close! Towards the end, we saw another turtle too! Afterwards, we warmed back up on the boat and had a lunch of fresh fish with rice – it was delicious! I chatted with the Israelis who had been travelling for a few months already and who had not known each other prior to agreeing to travel together – wild! Back at the harbour, we all went our separate ways after exchanging details to share underwater snaps and to make drinks plans for the evening.

I went back to the hostel to shower and nap and before heading out for a sunset read with a coffee and cake. I had had a cafe recommendation but sadly I couldn’t find the pace so ended up in a bar with coffee and chocolate cake (good enough for me!) and sat right at the front, looking out of the top floor at the street below. I finished my Alexander McCall Smith book while enjoying my cappuccino (with a much required extra shot) and my cake. After the sun had gone down, I headed back to the hostel after a walk along the pier, to do a little Spanish before heading back out for drinks.

I joined up with Israeli Roy and his friend, two British gals and a Canadian guy, who were already drinking at TJs bar. We chatted for awhile, before the gals left to prepare for an early flight and with them the boys bar Roy, who stayed to have a game of pool. Two locals suggested we did doubles so we did. After assuming we would lose horrifically, we won two out of three games! Ayyyyy! 🥳🥳🥳 (I’m sure we lost the last game because one of the two locals danced salsa with me at the crucial moment, so I wasn’t able to play the winning shot!) 😂😂😂. Afterwards, we headed homewards, and waved bye to Roy as he carried on up the road. Sleeeeeep! I was exhausted!